Mezcal
Mezcal, Markel & Del Maguey
Chris Markel’s passion for mezcal is a product of his Mexican ethnicity, hedonistic tendencies and current residency in the Mezcal capital of the world: Oaxaca, Mexico.
What is Mezcal?
Mezcal is an agave-based spirit produced in Mexico, similar to tequila.
While tequila can only be made from the blue weber agave, mezcal can be made from any species of agave.
This makes mezcal very similar to wine: a rabbit hole for enthusiasts.
Instead of different grapes, mezcal drinkers experience various agave species, regions, microclimates and production methods.
The roasting process for mezcal is longer than tequila, adding noticeable smoke on the nose and palate. People often refer to mezcal as “smokey tequila” because of this.
Most agave harvesting and mezcal production happens in Oaxaca: a rural, mountainous state in southern Mexico.
These are the basics. Let’s get into the fun stuff:
Chris Markel exploring espadin agaves near Santa Catarina Minas, Oaxaca, Mexico. (2024)
8 Tips to Buy & Drink Mezcal Like a Pro
“Sip it, don’t shoot it” — mezcal is best enjoyed neat, without food. Just tasting? Take two sips and assess the second. If the bottle is under $50, nobody cares.
Avoid drinking mezcal on the rocks. This is the equivalent of dumping water on your favorite dish.
Do not listen to liquor store workers, ever. Their mezcal selection is a mysterious extension of the tequila aisle, and even the confident ones are clueless. Be nice to them, of course.
Avoid brand representatives. Unlike liquor store employees, they will knowingly sell you overpriced garbage. Compliment their hustle and move on.
Avoid brands altogether. Candidly, this is impossible to do outside of Oaxaca. But, if you’re ever in mezcal country, the best of the best mezcal comes from families that have been producing small batches for generations. This is the mezcal that never makes it into branded, labeled bottles for commercial resale. If you find someone selling mezcal in an old Coca-Cola bottle, it is probably world-class.
Do not buy aged mezcal (reposado, añejo). This is a marketing gimmick that separates novices from their cash. These products are never mentioned in serious conversations about mezcal. Think of this as a tourist trap. Shame!
Always do your research. The internet is free, use it to your advantage. Mezcal Reviews is a good starting point. Avoid reading articles from for-profit publications — these are the digital-equivalent of liquor store workers and brand reps.
Do not shop by price. Price tags do not represent quality. This might sound like a no brainer, yet people still brag about drinking Pechugas. This is embarrassing and not advised. The market is full of bad deals — do your research, amigos!
Q: Since When Do Gringos Care About Mezcal?
A: Ron Cooper & Del Maguey
Ron Cooper is an American artist credited for introducing mezcal to the world after finding the spirit in 1962. His beverage company, Del Maguey, is known for discovering palenqueros (local mezcal producers) in extremely remote Oaxacan villages, often by rumor or accident, and bringing their “gems” to market while maintaining sustainable & ethical business practices. The latter is critical given the rarity of certain agave species, many of which grow only in the wild and face the inevitable risk of over-harvesting as demand grows.
Prior to this, mezcal was generally viewed in Mexico as a cheap spirit for the working class. North of the border was worse: a sketchy bottle of “tequila” with a worm.
Cooper’s first-to-market advantage, sustainable business practices and competitive selection have earned his company significant market share over the years. Del Maguey’s distinct green bottles serve as quality benchmarks in the mezcal industry today, with each bottle featuring artwork by the late Los Angeles contemporary artist, Ken Price.
Del Maguey expressions, artwork by Ken Price.
Most mezcal products, including those from Del Maguey, will fall into in three categories:
Mezcal made from a rare agave with an emphasis on the plant’s qualities.
Mezcal made from a common agave (espadin) with an emphasis on the specific microclimate or palenquero (producer) behind the expression.
Mezcal made from blending separate agaves or expressions into one product. These are called an ensamble, and are similar to blended scotch whiskeys.
Best Del Maguey Expressions: Reviewed & Ranked
1. Wild Tepextate
This rare plant is one of Del Maguey’s oldest at 18-25 years, growing only in the wild out of rocks on the sides of steep mountains. It is also one of their highest-elevation agaves, harvested at an altitude of 5,577 feet. The roast duration is also notable, sitting at 15 days compared to the 4-8 days commonly used in other expressions. Wild Tepextate is sweet and rich with tropical notes - the best dessert one could ask for.
Described in one word: bananas (it actually tastes like bananas)
2. Madrecuixe
Madrecuixe is a low altitude rarity brought to us by the same palenqueros behind the wildly popular Vida. The production methods for these expressions appear identical, making the agave itself the star of the show. Other reviews suggest there are more competitive madrecuixe mezcals for the price; a possibility worth exploring. This bottle is 750ml of wet jungle.
Described in one word: bubblegum
3. Chichicapa
Del Maguey’s most notable expression of espadin from Valles Centrales, and possibly from anywhere else (another conversation). The smokiness associated with Chichicapa has made it very popular outside of the mezcal world, especially among peated-scotch drinkers. Chichicapa is highly-acclaimed, relatively accessible, and worth every penny. This is Markel’s stranded-on-an-island bottle.
Described in one word: caramel-chocolate
4. San Jose Rio Minas
San Jose Rio Minas is a limited-release espadin made in very small batches - 80% smaller than your typical Del Maguey rarity. The milling process, generally done by horses, is done by hand with mallets in an empty canoe. Cooper was searching for the mezcal of Teozacolalco (which later became Wild Papalome) when he encountered a group of men with rifles, one of whom shared this meczal out of a water bottle and invited him to his incredibly remote palenque. This expression of espadin is particularly floral, fruity, and its high rank on this list will raise eyebrows.
Described in one word: peaches
5. Tobala
Tobala is another another rare plant, growing only in the wild at high elevations under the shade of oak trees. Each plant yields 85% less product than its commercialized counterparts, making this beautiful spirit even less accessible. The roast duration is a whopping 30 days, Del Maguey’s highest. Tobala is a complex spirit, collection staple and industry benchmark.
Described in one word: unable
6. Wild Papalome
Made from the papalometl maguey, many producers will label similar expressions as cupreata (the agave species). The nose on this bottle sets it apart from the rest: like putting on an expensive leather jacket. Wild Papalome is incredibly savory and not for the novice or sober palate. If mezcal was cheese this would be stinky, rotten and moldy - in the best way.
Described in one word: expired cherry coke
7. Minero
This is one of Del Maguey’s oldest espadin plants, harvested at 8-14 years due to the drier microclimate in Santa Catarina Minas. The palenque behind Minero has been described by Ron Cooper as “archaic” — featuring ancestral equipment and production methods. Distillation occurs in clay stills after a lengthy fermentation period of 15-25 days. Not a favorite on the palate, but very respectable (especially at 50% ABV).
Described in one word: autumn desserts
8. Las Milpas
Las Milpas is Del Maguey’s newest expression at the time of writing. This is one of their highest elevation espadins, harvested above San Dionisio Ocotepec at an altitude of 5,600 feet. Very enjoyable, though not life-changing. The reasonable price-point makes Las Milpas a pleasant introduction to the Del Maguey family.
Described in one word: citrus
9. San Luis Del Rio
San Luis del Rio is a small batch espadin and one of Del Maguey’s first productions. It is brought to us by the same palenqueros behind Vida — or should we say, the other way around. Cooper realized if he wanted to introduce mezcal to the world, Del Maguey would need a cocktail-friendly product with a price tag that bar managers would accept. This served as the predecessor for that product: Vida.
Markel placed this under Minero out of principle, even though he personally finds San Luis Del Rio more enjoyable.
Described in one word: Vida on steroids
10. Vida de San Luis Del Rio
The Coca-Cola of mezcal, Vida’s robust market share is well deserved. This expression of espadin is very versatile, making it a favorite among craft bartenders. Markel recommends Vida to anyone who wants an affordable, all-purpose mezcal laying around the house. Do not listen to liquor store employees, ever. Just get this and be happy.
Described in one word: margaritas!
11. Crema de Mezcal
Crema is a gimmicky release from Del Maguey: espadin mezcal infused with agave nectar. Sitting at 40% ABV, this bottle is deceptively soft, sweet, and thus, a liability. Crema de Mezcal was likely created as a friendly gateway into mezcal, and they seem to have done a decent job considering the alternatives (i.e aged mezcal). Once in a blue moon Markel will take a shots of this with family behind closed doors.
Described in one word: candy
Soon to Rank:
Papalote de Puebla
Exceptional. Will be #1 next time you read this.
Described in one word: ecstasy
Wild Jabali
The nose component is one of Del Maguey’s best,
Wild Jabali’s finish is waxy, short and overall underwhelming. The best solution to avoid this is to keep drinking.
Described in one word: Sambuca
Santo Domingo Albarradas
Into dry profiles? Look no further. This expression of espadin is roasted using only oak, and fermented in Del Maguey’s largest tinas (65% larger than Vida’s). Santo Domingo Albarradas is easily one of the driest and hottest items on this list. Don’t say Markel didn’t warn you.
Described in one word: Sahara
